1. home
  2. preface
  3. razor parts
  4. blade points
  5. razor identification
  6. the edge
  7. grinds
  8. grinds, why
  9. sharpening introduction
  10. stones
  11. strops
  12. using stones, introduction
  13. blade - stone geometry
  14. first stroke on stone
  15. last stroke on stone
  16. using the strop, introduction
  17. first stroke on strop
  18. last stroke on strop
  19. preparation for shave
  20. numbered shaving paths
  21. face, right side
  22. face, left side
  23. chin
  24. coup de maitre
  25. throat
  26. second over
  27. preface to archives
  28. La pogonotomia I
  29. La pogonotomia II
  30. La pogonotomia III
  31. La pogonotomia IV
  32. the razor I
  33. the razor II
  34. the razor III
  35. the razor IV
  36. the razor V
  37. the razor VI
  38. references
  39. summary
  40. guestbook

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Razor parts

parts.jpg
The straight razor consists of a handle and a blade. The handle consists of two shells, bridged by three pins. One of the pins is the pivot between the handle and the blade. The blade has an integrated tang. The transverse furrows on the top of the tang are called fluting or flutting and originally served to improve the grip. The blade and tang often contain engravings or etchings, indicating size and brand.

The stabilizing piece resists against torsion. It can be single, double, or single ellipsoid, depending on blade style, type, and esthetics.

Blades are made of normal steel with a carbon-content of 0.6% or more, and of rust-resistant chromium-steel. Carbon steel is easier to sharpen but more brittle, liable to chipping off and staining. Stain-resistant steel takes longer honing, but the results hold longer, and the edge is less vulnerable. Handles are made of Ambonia, Celluloid, Bone, Pakkawood, Mother of pearl, Ebony, Buffalo horn, Plastic. Celluloid is flammable and spontaneous inflammation has been described at higher natural temperatures. Even now, celluloid production is associated with extreme safety measures. Buffalo Horn can deformate after some time, increasing the risk of edge damage when closing the knife: it has form memory, but for the wrong form. Mother of pearl is brittle, which might result in cracks soon. Plastic is very thin and easy to deform, causing increased risk that the edge touches the handle while closing it. The hardwood handles do not rot because they are highly impregnated with resins; the weight gives ideal balance. Bone is stable as well. Both packawood, snakewood, and bone have the best material properties for intensive use.

The razorblade must be guided while closing, because all handles may loose their form a little after some time, which is normal.